Home and soup…

I arrived home late Saturday… after 10 days away… home is warm even as it is cold and rainy outside… Sunday, on a trip to the market I chanced to see a bag of barley…  The San Luis Valley in Colorado, my recent abode for the 10 days was a place where people grew barley… we passed a barley elevator twice each day as we commuted to “work”… somehow the bag of barley became the inspiration for soup…(they grow green chilies too… but this was not about green chilies)

At home I rummaged through the bottom of the freezer in search of beef bones, finding lamb bones instead… those bones, with the skins of several onions some tired limp celery and a few carrots went into the oven, roasting for several hours… I trimmed the meet from the bones, and cleved them, allowing the precious marrow to join the broth, then into the pot… the soup pot… a basic object with magical powers to make a house a home…

On to the stove, with a water to cover, a bit of salt, to simmer for some hours… the smell wonderful… late in the evening, I turned the stove off to let it cool a bit and strain it… then into the fridge for the night… This morning I skimmed the fat, then chopped and sautéed onions, carrots and celery and the lamb meat cut from the bone before the bone joined the pot… A bit of salt, some thyme, and the barley that started the whole thing and again onto the stove to simmer… Now I am thinking that a bit of lamb sausage might be good, and some lemon just before I serve it… I have a baguette… I am looking forward to dinner…

I’m home…

Saturday, Project End, or Planes, Trains & Automobiles…

I am up before 7:00, rising without benefit of alarm… shower, stuff a few last things in the suitcase… then head downstairs… and spend a few minutes with coffee, checking email before the others joined me for breakfast at 7:30 (huevos rancheros, for this is the home of food smothered in green chilies and what is better than huevos rancheros smothered in green chilies…) Breakfast done, we check out of the Inn of the Rio Grande and say goodbye…  We are in the car and on the road by 8:30... Then, 200 yards later we stop for gas... Rushing to meet the day is not our strong suit….

Here in Alamosa, it's overcast and cold... Snow is expected...

We are headed south down Colorado 285 through the San Luis Valley, through La Jara, towards Antonito our work place for the last 10 days… this time we don’t stop to spend the day in Antonito, for today we are headed back to California…  At Antonito we turn west towards the mountains…

There was a sign at Antonito, suggesting chains may be needed ahead… our rental car we doesn’t have chains and we have probably signed a disclaimer saying we wouldn’t use chains… We are concerned but not worried… we have checked weather reports in detail and talked to friends who live in Chama about what to expect.  They have recommended this route.

 

The road rose as we climbed the along the Conejoes River, into the Rockies… the landscape changed from the dry flat San Luis Valley, to Mountains, with pines and aspen… the buildings change from farms and barns to vacation cabins… Vacation cabins are much neater than the farms and barns… it is clear who has money, and does not include potatoes. The rain started before Antonito (7,800’) quickly changing to sleet as we leave town, then to snow…

A little beyond 8,000 feet we hit the sign calling for chains... (there was no one present to enforce said sign, and as our car had all season tires we made an informed (or optimistic) decision to proceed) And, as if by design it started to snow harder.  There was no sign that anyone was using chains, so while we considered turning back, we did not, and westward we continued… From 8,000 feet or so the road climbed, now steeper… more snow on the ground, the snow falling with intent… but the road while snow covered was easy traveling as long as we took it slow…  We took it slow…

We saw a couple of snow plows and a number of people parked by the side of the road (none of who had chains on their vehicles) Many of the other travelers had snow mobiles (or “snow machines” in local dialect) on trailers.  Signs reminded you than when parking you must be at least 10’ away from the road… we wouldn’t want one of those messy snow plow and car incidents after all. 

We soldiered on… over La Manga Pass (10,230’) then over Cumbres Pass (10,022’) in a near white out… There was never more than about 4” of snow on the road, and conditions were not too slick… Between the passes we rejoined the Cumbres & Toltec railroad near Los Pinos…  The water tank standing ghost like in the snow…  Conditions were nasty so we didn’t stop for photos…. At Cumbres the station and snow shed were well snowed in…

From Cumbres the road and railroad drop steeply down towards Chama at 7,850’… it continued to snow, but there was much less on the ground, and road conditions improved significantly… along the way we slipped into New Mexico…

In Chama we stopped at the railroad depot to visit with John and report on the project status… Chama particularly the railroad yard is a spectacular time capsule… a narrow gauge railroad yard and helper station, filled with wonderful (old) things… locomotives and wooden railroad cars… a bit dirty and grimy in a way that speaks to age and authenticity…. This time, time was our enemy…  We have a flight to catch, and with road conditions an unknown, we have set a hard deadline for leaving Chama….  as the others walked to the car, I ran through the yard, taking pictures, reveling in the railroad yard in snow… 

Now back on the road, we turned south on NM 89 towards Espanola... Of course, still in the snow.   

Again, the landscape was changing...  The Rockies giving way to the aired southwest... Pines and aspen become pinion pine and juniper with cottonwoods in the river bottom, mountains become sandstone buttes… then, after 45 minutes the snow becomes rain as we drop in elevation.  Now firmly in the southwest, we pass Georga O'Keefe's home in Aliquie... I have visions of cattle skulls and flowers… I may be delusional…

We reach Espanola by 12:30... Kyle and I have been lost in Espanola before...  Twice... (the signs for the highway and the business route are confusing) This time mike spots the sign telling us to turn left, saving us a third chance to wander.

From Santa Fe to Albuquerque we make good time…  better time than expected… we find gas, turn in the rental and reach the airport early… check bags (note, the Southwest Airline staff were particularly nice, cheerful and helpful…)  Our flight is delayed... Our flight from Las Vegas may be delayed as well, or not.. (Gate staff in Albuquerque say we are…) once on board, If we check status based on our ticket and it is..  If we simply check flight status through the Southwest.com website we are not.  I suspect we might be...

We find lunch and a beer or two at the Rio Grande Brew Pub and Grill in the airport while waiting… They had a couple of particularly nice very dark beers… Something difficult to find in Alamosa (except for their local brewpub, The San Luis Brewing Co… they understood dark beers… a wonderful spot of darkness in an otherwise light beer city).

Now 4:54pm... On the plane (the first of two planes)... In Albuquerque... Southwest 3003... To Las Vegas... From there to Sacramento...

A bit over an hour later… Dropping down into Nevada.... The desert stark and wonderful... Lake Mead and surrounding hills gives way to boulder, then Henderson, then Vegas... It's raining... A rare desert rain...

We land, we head for the new gate... They announce our gate has been changed...  We check the time on our phones… and watch the time update as have now entered the Pacific time zone.  We find the new gate... They are deep in the boarding process...  they are well beyond our boarding numbers.... We get the last remaining row near the back of the plane...  When we checked in, (in Albuquerque) and were told our flight here was delayed, we were told that this flight was late, and the connection was not an issue.... But the second flight was not delayed... Luckily we went to the gate directly... Had we not, there might have been an issue...

Now, settled aboard... We are preparing to leave... We are now on time, per the guys at the pointy end of the airplane....  Time to power off...  As we climb you can see the Strip below, bright lights and crowds… not a place the three of us are drawn to, but still a bit compelling…

Now back above 10,000' somewhere over the Sierras.... It's dark outside... People are sleeping... The woman in the row behind is telling stories about how close she came to getting married while in Vegas.... A $29.00 margarita may have been involved...  Apparently you need a birth certificate to get a marriage license... She seems a bit disappointed… Such is the nature of overheard conversations...

We land a bit ahead of schedule… We recover our checked luggage… Mike says goodbye just outside the terminal… Debbie, aka Mrs. Kyle arrives shortly… we return to their home, I load my luggage in the Jeep for the drive home...  

I am home a bit after 10:00… It’s been 13 hours, 4 states, 345 miles by car (aka an automobile), a few minutes visiting the trains in Chama, and two flights for 875 miles by plane… all and all a good day.

The trip has resulted in two Picasa albums… 11 photos from the San Luis Valley and “February on the Cumbres & Toltec” including a cold day in Chama.

Travel well… Randy

It’s still cold outside…

Tuesday, February 25^th…  We are half way through the project, or at least our visit…  It continues to be cold, occasionally very cold, but we seem to be adapting, dressing appropriately, and staying productive.It would be comfortable outside if it wasn’t for the wind… But while not a constant, it is more commonly windy than not.

With it cold outside, life takes place indoors mostly… and less care is taken with the appearance of things outside… It gives the towns a tough look…  Of course this is a place where one works outdoors… this is farm and ranch country… the local Yellow pages have 39 listings under “Potato”… potato farms, potato brokers, potato seed, potato warehouses… Farm equipment dealers are much in evidence…

We have a portable heater… delivered on Monday… It burns diesel… We ran out of fuel on Wednesday but the C&TS crew delivered 5 gallons of red dyed fuel… we have to promise not to be seen on the highway with the heater, but that doesn’t seem to be an issue.

Yesterday we were pulled over by the Colorado Highway Patrol (or what ever they call their state police)... He was polite an professional... suggested we were speeding (we don't think so) but didn't give us a ticket... We suspect he wanted to see who those three guys with California plates (the rental from New Mexico has California plates) were... For we are strangers here... and a bit of a curiosity...

Just a hint... if you ever find yourself in the San Luis Valley... pay attention to the speed limit... 65 on the highway, but it drops down to 30 through town, and the State Police, the county sheriff and local authorities are much in evidence...  It seems posted speed limits are an absolute... not a suggestion...

Now Thursday… The ice broke on the Rio Grande yesterday…  but now today, it is cold, with a west wind, and clouds are gathering… a storm is due.  The heater ran out of fuel… we got more fuel… blessed fuel... Late today it started raining, then snowing, then snowing with intent…  Friday morning broke to clear skies… there is ice about but it is by our new standards warm… 

We have a single day to complete the project…We bug out tomorrow...  I think we will make it… Work continues…

It’s cold outside…

The thing I currently call “work”, occasional consulting projects has brought me to far southern Colorado… specifically to Alamosa and Antonito and the San Luis Valley.  We are at above 7,000… surrounded by the Rockies…

The Rio Grande is frozen... there is a bit of snow on the ground and much on the hills surrounding us...  It would be comfortable outside if it wasn’t for the wind… But while not a constant, it is more commonly windy than not.

With it cold outside, life takes place indoors mostly… and less care is taken with the apearence of things outside… It gives the town a tough look…

We arrived in Antonito at dusk, Last Wednesday in a snow storm...  Thursday was taken up by project meetings...   Friday the work began

Our work is outside, or in a unheated building…   There are three of us on the team… measuring, drawing, documenting and writing restoration plans for 4 19^th century wooden railroad passenger cars… 2 of which were built when Grant was president…

Around the project we eat (this is the land of food smothered in green chili....)  The steaks here are very good...  The local brew pub has a nice IPA

After eating we then return to our rooms to work, transcribing notes and writing up results on computers....

We have 6 more days to go...

New Years Eve in Death Valley…

The lovely Tina was up early… not quite with the sun… but early… and voluntarily… 

We checked out, stopped for some $5.11 per gallon gas (a few gallons to make sure we had gas on arrival at Beatty…), stopped at the visitor’s center for an orange window tag (so they know you paid your entrance fee… we have a magic card… aka a National Parks Annual Pass, so no fee was required for the orange tag) then headed north toward to Ubehebe Crater, and Scotty’s Castle… Immediately we pause to visit Harmony Borax works… and its 20 mule team wagon set…  Back on the road, as we drive north the Lovely Tina was admiring with awe the scenery… the starkness… the vastness… the strangeness… 

We drive out to the crater first.  While volcanic, it’s not like other volcanic features we are used to…  Some brave souls are hiking to the bottom…  We don’t… (while Tina’s knee might allow a descent into the crater, getting out would have involved additional equipment up to and including a rescue team… we thing better of the idea and pass)

Back to the main road and a mile or two further we reach the castle… A tour would be starting in 2 minutes… I buy tickets and stash Tina’s purse in the Jeep (no purses or bags allowed on the tour) and we make it to the front door as the ranger starts to gather guests.  The tour is interesting… The guide good… the building and its stories fantastic…    We check the gift shop, then start to leave, but pause when we see Marvin the Coyote (it turns out Park Rangers name their coyotes too) in the picnic area waiting for a handout…  We take pictures but leave no gifts… Then back on the road now headed east towards Nevada and Hwy 95…  Past Bonnie Clare and its dry lake… to the Jct with 95… then south towards Beatty…

In Beatty we picked up gas ($3.39 a gallon) and had lunch at the Happy Burro, then headed to Rhyolite… stopping first at the Goldwell outdoor museum, then up into town to see the bottle house, railroad station and a quick look at the ruins… Then on to Titus Canyon…

Titus Canyon is a dirt road, which leaves the road from Beatty to Death Valley just west of Rhyolite… It is one way, from east to west… 26 miles or so… first up an alluvial fan, then climbing the ridge among low hills, then switch backs up and down to Leadfield, a short lived mining town, now ghost town… then down through Titus Canyon narrows emerging in Death Valley.  Signs say 4 wheel drive high clearance only… but if you tried you could do the road in a regular car… it wasn’t that bad…  It was that spectacular…  particularly at the narrows at the end…

Once back on paved roads we watch the sun drop below the surrounding peaks as we arrived at the dunes near Stovepipe Wells… we walked out a bit, but on this evening the dunes were crowded, and the spectacular feeling of solitude was lost… There was still the sense of space… but no solitude…

From the dunes it was a short drive to Stovepipe Wells where we were spending the night…  We were in room No 1, in the oldest part of the complex… small but nice and clean… the restaurant had a New Years Eve special dinner… we got reservations for 6:30 (the earliest available) then walked about and shared something bubbly in our room before dinner… Stovepipe Wells has free internet, but it was very slow… so slow that most sites error out before loading…  such are the ways of remote places…   

Now New Years Morning, January 1^st 2014…  we got up late…  We will hit the road just after 9:00… with luck and a following wind we will reach home about 6:00 and I will post this thing….

Now home… The trip home, 499 miles, took a bit over 8 hours… first west though the Panamint Valley (Carl the coyote was not to be seen...) and on to the Owens Valley, heading south on 395 at Olancha…  We tried to find somewhere to eat in Mojave, but between New Years and restaurants going out of business, ended up heading to Tehachapi, where New Years limited choices and we settled for Denny’s… 

Back on the road… there was a train on the loop but we didn’t stop.  We cut across Bakersfield on Stockdale Hwy…  then north on I-5…  The drive home was an anti climax… music a bit louder… and talk about the next trips… and planning needed… We already had a trip to Glacier planned for July, but now we are thinking about a long weekend in Sequoia…  Travel leading to travel…  Such is the way of the road.