The lovely Tina was up early… not quite with the sun… but
early… and voluntarily…
We checked out, stopped for some $5.11 per gallon gas (a few
gallons to make sure we had gas on arrival at Beatty…), stopped at the
visitor’s center for an orange window tag (so they know you paid your entrance
fee… we have a magic card… aka a National Parks Annual Pass, so no fee was
required for the orange tag) then headed north toward to Ubehebe Crater, and
Scotty’s Castle… Immediately we pause to visit Harmony Borax works… and its 20
mule team wagon set… Back on the road,
as we drive north the Lovely Tina was admiring with awe the scenery… the
starkness… the vastness… the strangeness…
We drive out to the crater first. While volcanic, it’s not like other volcanic
features we are used to… Some brave
souls are hiking to the bottom… We
don’t… (while Tina’s knee might allow a descent into the crater, getting out
would have involved additional equipment up to and including a rescue team… we
thing better of the idea and pass)
Back to the main road and a mile or two further we reach the
castle… A tour would be starting in 2 minutes… I buy tickets and stash Tina’s
purse in the Jeep (no purses or bags allowed on the tour) and we make it to the
front door as the ranger starts to gather guests. The tour is interesting… The guide good… the
building and its stories fantastic… We
check the gift shop, then start to leave, but pause when we see Marvin the
Coyote (it turns out Park Rangers name their coyotes too) in the picnic area
waiting for a handout… We take pictures
but leave no gifts… Then back on the road now headed east towards Nevada and
Hwy 95… Past Bonnie Clare and its dry
lake… to the Jct with 95… then south towards Beatty…
In Beatty we picked up gas ($3.39 a gallon) and had lunch at
the Happy Burro, then headed to Rhyolite… stopping first at the Goldwell
outdoor museum, then up into town to see the bottle house, railroad station and
a quick look at the ruins… Then on to Titus Canyon…
Titus Canyon is a dirt road, which leaves the road from
Beatty to Death Valley just west of Rhyolite… It is one way, from east to west…
26 miles or so… first up an alluvial fan, then climbing the ridge among low
hills, then switch backs up and down to Leadfield, a short lived mining town,
now ghost town… then down through Titus Canyon narrows emerging in Death
Valley. Signs say 4 wheel drive high
clearance only… but if you tried you could do the road in a regular car… it
wasn’t that bad… It was that
spectacular… particularly at the narrows
at the end…
Once back on paved roads we watch the sun drop below the
surrounding peaks as we arrived at the dunes near Stovepipe Wells… we walked
out a bit, but on this evening the dunes were crowded, and the spectacular
feeling of solitude was lost… There was still the sense of space… but no
solitude…
From the dunes it was a short drive to Stovepipe Wells where
we were spending the night… We were in
room No 1, in the oldest part of the complex… small but nice and clean… the
restaurant had a New Years Eve special dinner… we got reservations for 6:30
(the earliest available) then walked about and shared something bubbly in our
room before dinner… Stovepipe Wells has free internet, but it was very slow… so
slow that most sites error out before loading…
such are the ways of remote places…
Now New Years Morning, January 1st 2014… we got up late… We will hit the road just after 9:00… with
luck and a following wind we will reach home about 6:00 and I will post this
thing….
Now home… The trip home, 499 miles, took a bit over 8 hours…
first west though the Panamint Valley (Carl the coyote was not to be seen...) and on to the Owens Valley, heading south
on 395 at Olancha… We tried to find
somewhere to eat in Mojave, but between New Years and restaurants going out of business,
ended up heading to Tehachapi, where New Years limited choices and we settled
for Denny’s…
Back on the road… there was a train on the loop but we didn’t
stop. We cut across Bakersfield on
Stockdale Hwy… then north on I-5… The drive home was an anti climax… music a bit
louder… and talk about the next trips… and planning needed… We already had a
trip to Glacier planned for July, but now we are thinking about a long weekend
in Sequoia… Travel leading to travel… Such is the way of the road.
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